There are over 10,000 species of grass in the world, and while lawn cuttings might not be worth much more than compost, there are certain varieties that can net a small fortune, besides cannabis. Vetiver – or khus – is a fragrant type, and the roots can be used to make an essence that is a highly prized raw ingredient in the creation of men’s perfumery.
Wear a fragrance or two? You are bound to own at least one scent that contains vetiver, if not several. Vetiver appears in many traditional and contemporary accords, typically in the base of the composition, where it lends a characteristic earthiness that can also be floral, smoky, or woody. So, why is it so ubiquitous in masculine scents?
“Vetiver has a unique olfactive character – intensely woody, but earthy at the same time, with nuances of citrus and leather,” says Nicolas Beaulieu, VP Perfumer at IFF, and creator of fragrances for Comme des Garçons, Giorgio Armani, Diesel, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Ferragamo and most recently, the vetiver infused Nirvaname for WITHIN 51/49.
“It has a captivating, complex, robust and powerful sillage, almost the archetype of a masculine fragrance. It is also very long-lasting and brings sophistication to fougère and woody accords,” continues Beaulieu.
Don’t start clearing the attic for your hydroponic farm just yet: the world’s best is cultivated naturally on the tropical slopes of Haiti, India, Indonesia and Réunion. The essential oil is mostly produced using the root of the plant, although the leaves can be used too.
Like grapes and wine, each variety has its own distinct quality dependent on the local climate or even the microclimate where it’s harvested. Some say Caribbean vetiver leans towards fresh, whereas Asian and Indonesian plants are favoured for their earthy smokiness.
“There are two main qualities of vetiver, and even though they have the same botanical type (vetiveria zizanioides), they present very different olfactive characteristics due to the terroir and distillation process,” explains Beaulieu.
“Vetiver from Haiti is the most common quality, and is intensely woody with nuances of grapefruit bitterness and spicy undertones. Vetiver from Java, meanwhile, has a very smoky and intense leathery character that’s very distinctive.”
Whether you prefer a clean, soapy vetiver, or a dark, earthy vetiver, our selection below caters to both.
10 Of The Best Vetiver Fragrances
Vetiver de Guerlain
Arguably the reference for all vetiver scents, Vétiver by Guerlain was released in 1959, and is the benchmark by which all other vetivers are measured. The original composition takes vetiver, tobacco, cedar, bergamot, petitgrain and neroli and spins it into a masterpiece.
It may smell old-fashioned compared to its contemporaries, but it remains legendary for good reason. It’s worth sniffing out a bottle of the original stuff, which can be found on the upper floor of La Maison Guerlain on the Champs Elysées in Paris, which houses the full archive.
In 2000, Jean-Paul Guerlain reinterpreted Vetiver de Guerlain, an eau de toilette featuring a double serving of vetiver in the heart and base notes.
Vetiver de Guerlain Parfum, released earlier this year, adds a new chapter to the history and heritage. Perfumer Delphine Jelk’s composition is inspired by the style of an infused gin, opening with aromatic juniper berry, coriander and liquorice, followed by the fresh facets of vetiver essence over a base of tonka bean and smoky notes.
Shop now at Guerlain
Le Labo Vetiver 46
The number on a Le Labo fragrance indicates the total ingredient count. Vetiver 46 is one of the more complex scents in the collection, behind Myrrhe 55 and Ylang 49.
Composed around the finest Haitian vetiver, the 45 remaining ingredients in Vetiver 46 include notes of pepper, gaïac, labdanum, olibanum and cedar.
Manly and spicy, with creamy smooth notes of vanilla and incense, it’s a bear hug of a scent.
Buy now at John Lewis
D.S. & Durga St Vetyver
St Vetyver by D.S & Durga is inspired by Caribbean sailors’ cologne. Its accord conjures the warmth, sights, tastes and smells associated with a tropical paradise.
Opening notes of sour orange, pink pepper and sea grass give way to a sugary, spiced heart of sugar cane, clove leaf and toquilla straw (used for the famed weave of the Panama hat), over base notes of vetiver, bread nut and aged rum. This intoxicating blend amplifies the smokiness using pure aged distillate of Haitian vetiver, giving it a sweet and sultry undertone.
In the depths of winter, you’ll appreciate the reference to warmer climes.
Buy now at Liberty
Czech & Speake Vétiver Vert
The London perfumer, Czech & Speake, offers a modern take on the ‘classic’ vetiver in this eau de parfum.
Vétiver Vert opens with citrus notes, specifically mandarin and bergamot, over a balsamic heart of laurel and galbanum. Base notes of Haitian vetiver and sandalwood complete the ultra-wearable green, woody scent.
Buy now at Czech & Speake
“The amazing Vetiver Extraordinaire is a classic vetiver, in a more woody and modern interpretation,” says Nicholas Beaulieu. Dominique Ropion’s lauded take on vetiver for Frédéric Malle is a must try, if not an instant buy.
Bergamot, bitter orange and pink pepper comprise the fresh, spicy opening notes. The middle notes contain the highest-quality Haitian vetiver, cashmeran, cedar and sandalwood over base notes of oak moss and musk, creating something powerful and slightly animalic.
Buy now at John Lewis
Lalique Encre Noire
Encre Noire is an earthy, aromatic scent that’s garnered a cult following for its unique accord. From the master French glassmaker of the same name, it features a top note of cypress, a heart of Haitian vetiver and bourbon vetiver, and an enveloping dry down of cashmere wood and musk.
Encased in a bottle inspired by the ‘Biches’ inkwell designed by René Lalique in 1913, it is dark, smoky and has long lasting quality, for an incredibly reasonable price.
Buy now at AllBeauty
Hermès Terre D’Hermès
Terre d’Hermès has almost two decades of award-winning bestseller status under its H buckle belt. Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, this woody, mineral scent combines cedar, grapefruit, vetiver and a touch of flint in an olfactory exploration of man’s relationship with the earth.
At this point, it’s more likely to remind you of someone’s rich Uncle than connect you to nature. However, its position as one of the most successful designer fragrances of recent times is enduring.
Buy now at AllBeauty
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver Parfum
An impeccably tailored version of Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver, the Parfum is classed as a fruity amber, versus the woody citrus of the EDT.
Equally charming, the parfum offers a very deep and long-lasting take on the original eau de parfum (there’s three in the collection), that blends orange flower and saffron with a trio of sustainably sourced vetiver essences of Haitian origin, mixing citrus, spice and woods.
Like holding a cool, flinty stone, that warms up with transfer of heat from the skin, it starts cool and leaves a warm, woody dry down with hints of spice.
Buy now at LookFantastic
Creed Original Vétiver
A cornerstone of the Creed collection, Original Vétiver is a special fragrance because it harnesses the root and leaves of this plant.
A smooth, earthy, aromatic scent, it opens with ginger, lemon and green notes, revealing vetiver, fresh floral notes, coriander and cypress, over a base of white musk, cedarwood and guaiac wood.
Some compare it to Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino, and we can definitely smell the resemblance in the opening. Likewise, we wish that it wasn’t quite so fleeting on the skin. That said, for those who like a ‘clean’ vetiver, this is an absolutely gorgeous scent.
Buy now at John Lewis
Miller Harris Vetiver Insolent
As the leaves begin to turn, you might feel like wrapping yourself in the cosy embrace of Vetiver Insolent. Despite the rather incongruous name – think unapologetic rather than rude or offensive – this vetiver takes direction from a softly carpeted forest floor.
The fresh, spicy opening of Italian bergamot, black pepper cardamom, elemi and Indian cardamom overlays floral notes of iris, lavandin absolute, and crisp amber, on a woody, smoky base of vetiver Haiti, tonka bean and moss.
Buy now at LookFantastic
