Popping some tailoring on is always the safest bet when you need to look sharp. But not every special occasion calls for a three-piece suit, black leather Derbies and a pressed white shirt. There will be those situations that allow for a little more sartorial flair, in which a full suit might feel like overkill. This is exactly when it pays to understand the concept of dressing down.
Dressing a suit down means using things like fabric choice, structure (or lack thereof), colour, texture and contemporary pieces to reduce the overall level of formality. It’s all about mixing in casual elements to offset the suit’s signature smartness, allowing it to blend in naturally in more relaxed environments.
The trouble with dressing a suit down is that it’s alarmingly easy to mess up. Get it right and you’re the embodiment of sprezzatura and easygoing sophistication, but get it wrong and you’re a corporate finance bro who switched his dress shoes for sneakers on the subway ride home.
To help keep you on the right track, we’ve pulled together some tried-and-tested ways to dress down a suit, allowing you to pull the look off with confidence every time.
With A Polo
That crisp white shirt plays a significant role in making a suit look formal. Replace it with something more relaxed and you can completely alter the overall feel of the outfit. Are we suggesting you stick a pyjama top or hoodie underneath your tailored jacket? Not quite, but switching the button-up for a polo shirt gives a nice balance that we feel works well most of the time.
To nail this one, we’d recommend ensuring the polo shirt in question is an immaculate fit. It should be slim and form-flattering with shoulder seams that sit neatly on the hinge of the arm. Anything too baggy and it’ll bunch up underneath your jacket and look sloppy.
Make sure the colour complements the suit, too. To play it safe, go for either high contrast or tonal colours. For example, you could pair a beige polo with a navy suit for contrast or a brown polo with a green suit for tonal.
With A T-Shirt
This one’s a classic, but only use it for smart-casual settings. It will probably be slightly too informal for weddings or strict corporate office environments. That said, it’s a quick way to instantly dress down a suit, and it can look great when done right.
To pull it off, follow the advice above in terms of colour and fit. It’s also worth adding that the T-shirt should be of high quality. Remember, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, so if you decide to team up an expensive suit with a £3 Fruit of the Loom T-shirt, don’t be surprised if it doesn’t look right.
The fabric should be soft and light, and the neckline should be subtle without chunky ribbing.
With Sneakers
Powerful when executed correctly but dangerously easy to get wrong, this high-low combo should be handled carefully.
The key thing to consider is the style of sneakers and the suit’s formality. The former needs to be fairly dressy by sneaker standards, and the latter fairly relaxed by suit standards. So that’s a big no to a pair of Nike Air Max and a tuxedo, but a big yes to a pair of Common Projects Achilles Lows with an unstructured linen suit.
All of that said, it could be argued that this look is starting to feel somewhat dated. If you’re bothered by that sort of thing, you can achieve a similar effect with the next suggestion.
Sockless With Loafers
We love loafers because they’re the perfect blend of smart and casual. This means you can wear them with tailored or casual clothes and they’ll look like they’re supposed to be there. The big debate is whether to go sockless or not, and while we do believe there is a place for socks with loafers, this is not one of them.
The trouble with wearing socks with loafers and tailoring is that it can all get very Michael Jackson quickly. Plus, the exposed ankle adds to the dressed-down look. Just make sure your trousers are a good length, ending right around the ankle bone, and go for a nice versatile loafer colour so that you can wear it with lots of different outfits. We’d recommend brown or oxblood.
With Shorts
OK, this one is perhaps a tad controversial, and there’s a real danger of looking like a Victorian schoolboy. However, if you’re an adventurous dresser who’s undeterred by an element of risk in your outfits, then by all means give it a go.
We feel a suit with shorts works best in linen and should only be called upon when the weather truly justifies it. If you’re heading abroad for a destination wedding in the sun, that could be a good opportunity to try it.
Relaxed Separates
Tone down the dressiness by forgoing a full suit in favour of separates. It’s still smart and shows you’ve made an effort, but different colours, top and bottom, give it a more laid-back look.
Some tried-and-tested colour combos include navy and cream, olive and cream, navy and grey, and beige and blue, but for a full rundown, we’d advise you to read our comprehensive guide to foolproof colour-matching combinations.
With Knitwear
During the summer months, a polo or a T-shirt is a great alternative to a dress shirt, but what about in the winter? Thankfully, knitwear does a similar job while keeping you warm at the same time.
Opt for a low-profile knit in a complementary colour and wear it with a T-shirt underneath instead of a collared shirt to keep the neckline nice and casual. Alternatively, drop the tee altogether and switch your button-up for a turtleneck.
