After 25 years, Patek Philippe has released a completely new range of watches. What people thought would be revealed at Watches & Wonders has instead been revealed in Geneva this past week. But is it any good?
Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought Patek Philippe would jump on the square watch trend. But here we are—Patek Philippe has just launched the Cubitus, the brand’s first totally new collection in 25 years. And yes, it’s bloody square.
Square watches have gained traction over the past few years, with iconic models like the TAG Heuer Monaco and more recently, the Cartier Santos leading the charge.
The Cartier Santos, in particular, has become the go-to luxury square watch for most buyers. Of course, there’s also Richard Mille’s tonneau-shaped offerings and the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, but when it comes to watches that are more accessible (relatively speaking), it’s been a two-horse race between the Cartier Santos and TAG Heuer Monaco.
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As a TAG Heuer Monaco owner myself, I’ll admit I don’t wear it often, but I love it. That’s why I find it so strange that Patek Philippe has decided to release the Cubitus now. At first glance, it’s almost just a Nautilus with square edges. The bracelet, the dial—it all feels quite familiar with Gerald Genta’s iconic aesthetics. The Caliber 26‑330 movement is also the same movement which powers the Nautilus and Aquanaut models, such as the rare Tiffany blue Nautilus.
Now, considering how Patek has made the Nautilus harder and harder to get, will the Cubitus be the watch people turn to in frustration? It’s hard to say at this early stage.
When Audemars Piguet released the Code 11.59, everyone hated it at first. But over time, it’s grown on us, and each evolution seems to get better. Could the same happen with the Cubitus? Will we look back in a few years and admire its boldness?
There’s also the question of strategy. Many believe that the Cubitus might be the “entry ticket” to get your hands on other Patek Philippe models. This tactic has worked for Audemars Piguet, and it wouldn’t be surprising if Patek is trying to replicate the model here. The Cubitus comes in similar variations to the Nautilus—green dial, blue dial, platinum—and at similar price points. So, did Patek Philippe really need to release this watch, or is it just a strategic play to capture a slice of the square watch market, currently dominated by Cartier?
Of course, there’s the exclusivity factor. Patek Philippe watches are as rare as rocking horse shit, and the Cubitus will likely be no different. The scarcity will drive demand, but whether it becomes a coveted collector’s item like the Nautilus is still up for debate.
So, should you buy one? It depends. If you’re a die-hard Patek fan with a long history with the brand, you’ll likely get your hands on one. And maybe, just maybe, it’ll grow on you. However, for most of us, the Cartier Santos Dumont still reigns supreme in the square watch arena, with the TAG Heuer Monaco not far behind.
That said, after seeing the Patek Philippe Cubitus on a few wrists including our Scandinavian friend @kristianhaagen, it’s not the ugliest watch I’ve ever seen. Will it be a success? Only time will tell. Keep an eye on this one.
Patek Philippe is sold through Kennedy and The House Glass in Australia.
