Buying Your First Watch – What You Need To Know

• Researching the brand’s history and reputation is crucial when buying your first watch.
• Understanding the difference between quartz and automatic movements is essential.
• The size of your watch should complement your wrist and outfit – choose a size that suits your personal style and comfort.

Buying your first watch can be a nerve-wracking experience. If you’re unsure of the process, there are several things to look out for when it comes to selecting the best timepiece, that goes way beyond just a favourable price tag.

With so many timepieces out on the market, there’s a lot to consider. From the price tag to the materials; the movement to the bracelets, buying your first watch can be overwhelming. But don’t worry, we’re here to help. Before you make any decisions (and part with your hard-earned cash) take a look at our comprehensive buying guide that will help you break down the watch-choosing process.

Brand Reputation

Ultimately, a good watch is more than just a timekeeper, it’s the ultimate statement piece a guy can buy. For most of us anyway, the first thing we notice is the flash of stainless steel or the glint of a bezel poking out from someone’s cuff is often the first thing we notice. It’s become almost instinctive, an unspoken nod to the wearer’s taste and style.

Many first-time buyers overlook the importance of choosing a brand known for quality and craftsmanship, instead opting to pick out something that looks the part, without any of the reputation.

And whilst appearance is essential for your first timepiece (the best watch is going to be the one you love to wear), the watch brand’s story, heritage and reputation are just as important. Take it from us, there are good timepieces… and then there are great ones.

Take some time to research the history of the brand and make an informed decision. Brands with a rich heritage, known for innovation and quality, tend to offer more than just a good-looking piece – they offer reliability, craftsmanship, and often a story behind each of their signature models. It’s an investment at the end of the day, but don’t worry, we’ll get onto that.

Know Your Movements

Most watch enthusiasts would argue that the movement is the most important aspect of a timepiece. It’s the beating heart of the timepiece, and in some cases, forms a large part of the watch’s overall aesthetic. With the rise of open-worked dials and sapphire casebacks, more and more watches are showcasing their movements, revealing the intricate craftsmanship behind the scenes.

Essentially, there are two main groups: Quartz and Automatic. Quartz watches, which are powered by a tiny quartz crystal to provide steady timing, were the standard during the 20th century. They were reliable and affordable as the watch would just require a replaceable battery to power the electrical component. They were easy to use, convenient and highly accurate, usually only deviating by a few seconds per month.

Then automatic watches – sometimes referred to as mechanical watches – entered the scene. These timepieces require kinetic energy from the wearer to wind the watch’s mainspring. Unlike quartz watches, they don’t require a replaceable battery to power the movement and keep the watch ticking, which allowed luxury manufactures to really flex their horological muscles and create incredibly intricate and complicated movements.

Choose an Appropriate Size

Don’t believe the hype: size does matter. Especially with watches. Watches, like most things, follow trends and will likely affect your choices when it comes to picking out your first watch.

Ultimately, any watch you select needs to be the appropriate size for your wrist. No one likes an oversized watch, so make sure when you try it, check yourself out and make sure it doesn’t look awkward. Plus, if it is oversized, you’d be more prone to accidentally knocking and scratching it, and that’s the last thing you’d want to be doing with your latest piece.

Watches should also complement your outfit. So don’t try to overstate it by wearing an over-sized watch. You’ll look silly when wearing a suit and people will take more notice of your wrist, rather than your beautifully tailored suit. There was a time when everyone said bigger is better, with modern enthusiasts opting for larger dials upwards of 45mm.

But smaller watches, like the Cartier Crash, are coming back into fashion. So don’t always follow the majority; choose one that suits you.

Understanding Complications

Complications are essentially additional features that go beyond a watch’s basic function of telling time. Today’s market has seen an influx of exciting complications to choose from, which, if you don’t know what you’re looking for, can be confusing.

These include the chronograph, which is a popular watch for motorsport enthusiasts as it doubles up as a stopwatch; there’s the perpetual calendar, which automatically adjusts the date, accounting for leap years so that it can last a single lifetime; the minute repeater chimes the time on demand; and the tourbillon is an intricate mechanism designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the watch’s movement, meaning increased accuracy and techinal precision.

Having all these complications may seem cool, but the more complications you have on your timepiece, the more expensive it becomes. Having complications on your watch also means that it will require more movements. This will in turn make your watch larger in thickness and in size, to internally accommodate all the movements (please see watch sizes).

The Types of Bracelets & Straps

The bracelet of your watch can dramatically change the feel of your outfit. Watch’s that use stainless steel bracelets are the epitome of sporty chic – just look at the Rolex Submariner, Chopard Alpine Eagle or the new IWC Ingenieur Automatic.

Then you have your leather bands: smart, sophisticated and effortlessly cool. Leather straps tend to dress up your outfit and be more formal compared to their metal counterparts. For any collector, you should probably consider having both a sleek metal number and a classy dress watch; you’ll be covered for any occasion, no matter how formal.

Of course, there are plenty of aftermarket straps available in-store and online, just make sure to get a hands-on first to see if it will suit your preferred timepiece. If you were feeling extra horological, you can learn how to swap your straps over by yourself using the right tools.

Water Resistance

When it comes to water resistance, it’s important to consider how the feature will be useful in any real-world situation. We’ll naturally look to get the most water resistance available, but when are we ever going to go down to 300 bar with our watch? Don’t get me wrong, it’s an incredible feat of engineering. But unless you’re a professional diver, it’s not an essential feature to consider.

Australians who spent the majority of their time swimming or surfing will need a watch that boasts a good water resistance to keep up with the demands of the sunnier lifestyle. Brands like Panerai offer the best water resistance, but remember to check your depth rating too, as water resistance can diminish over the time – seals will also need to checked regularly to ensure effective water resistance.

Finding The Right Price

We all live the dream that we can have whatever we want. But unfortunately, for most, budget does tend to be the determining factor when buying the first watch. So if in doubt, stay within your allocated budget and resist the temptation to go over. There will always be another opportunity to splurge.

Watch prices tend to be relative to the quality and heritage of the brand, but that doesn’t mean you have to drop half a million on one timepiece on your first one. It’s probably an incredible watch, but there are others. Save that kind of money for the next one.

If you do fall in love with a watch that is above your price range, you can always look into the second-hand market. You can find great deals depending on the year, condition and demand. Online sites like Chrono24 are the best place to look for your favourite pieces that are still in excellent condition.

For the first time in a long time, iconic Swiss luxury watch brands like Rolex are finally seeing some price correction on the secondary market, which means now could be the best time to pick up that Day-Date or Daytona.

Resale Value

Unlike cars or clothes, luxury watches are one of the few investments that we can make where the watch can actually increase in value over time.

So if resale value is a consideration of yours, it’s important to stick to classic timepieces – primarily from brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe – as these are the ones that tend to hold, and even appreciate in value over time.

This is mainly down to the increased brand reputation, scarcity of new product available in boutiques and online, as well as the premium materials and craftsmanship that goes into making them. Remember, factors like condition, originality, and maintaining proper documentation – such as the box and papers – can also significantly impact the resale price of your watch.