In the world of watchmaking, the âgrand complicationââa timepiece containing several complications such as a chronograph, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, or moreâreigns supreme. The epitome of haute horlogerie, these exquisitely sophisticated watches are powered by movements containing hundreds upon hundreds of parts, making them more akin to miniature mechanical computers than conventional time-telling devices.
Jay-Z, one of the worldâs most renowned collectors, owns several such piecesâespecially ones from Patek Philippe, whose oeuvre contains a dedicated sub-collection of g âGrand complications. Spotted recently at the UEFA Champions League final, Hov rocked what is arguably one of the most drool-worthy such timepieces in the form of the ref. 5271/11P, a manually-wound perpetual calendar-chronograph set with over five carats of baguette-cut sapphires.
This particular combination of complicationsâthe perpetual calendar with a chronographâis a speciality of Patekâs, which launched the ref. 1518 in 1941. Since then, the maison has continued to innovate in this area, releasing watches that have taken on the aspect of horological lore: The reference 2499, for example, is considered by many collectors to be one of the finest, most beautiful references ever designed.
The 5271, meanwhile, is a contemporary extension of the 1518âs legacy. Housed in a 41mm platinum case, it measures just 12.7mm tall despite its incredibly complicated Caliber CH 29â535 PS Q movement. Its lacquered blue with black-gradient rim, which features attractive white gold applied hour markers, provides a wealth of information to the wearer: In addition to the time, thereâs a dual-register chronograph with a 30-minute counter; day and month windows; a moon phase display combined with a date indicator; a leap year indicator; and a day/night indicator. If wound daily, the watch will remain accurate until February 28, 2100, at which point it will require manual correction to account for a secular year that omits that monthâs 29th day.
The standout feature of the ref. 5271/11P, however, is actually in the case itself: Set within its bezel and lugsâand within the fold-over clasp of its black, hand-stitched alligator leather strapâis a total of 80 baguette-cut sapphires totaling 5.16 carats. (The watch is also available with rubies or diamonds in place of the sapphires.) Striking and unique, the addition of precious stones takes the price of such a watch into the stratosphere, where it retails for (an oddly specific) $351,150.
Believe it or not, there are actually even more complicated watches than this in Jay-Zâs collection: The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300G contains so many complications that it requires two dials in order to display them all. That being said, the 5271âas an elegant evolution of a watch that debuted, unbelievably, during the throes of a world warâis arguably the more compelling of the two. (To be fair, both are fun watches to see worn casually in the wild, rather than kept behind glass like museum pieces, as their complication and price might otherwise warrant.)
Patrick Mahomesâs Rolex Yacht-Master II
Kansas City Chiefs QB Mahomes joined several of his teammates at the White House to meet with President Joe Biden in celebration of the teamâs latest Super Bowl win this week. On the noted collectorâs wrist? A Rolex Yacht-Master IIâa watch that was discontinued by the Crown this year. Measuring 44mm in the brandâs Oystersteel, itâs actually a fairly unique yachting chronograph: The bezel contains the patented Ring Command system, which is used to âprogramâ the watchâs countdown feature to between one and 10 minutes. Entirely mechanically powered, this system was unique in the Rolex catalog, but must now, unfortunately, be sought out on the secondary market.
Mark Wahlbergâs Patek Philippe Grand Complication ref. 5374/300P
There must be something in the air this week: Wahlberg, like Jay-Z, also stepped out in one of Patekâs grand complication watchesâalbeit one set with 228 baguette-cut diamonds and 13 baguette-cut sapphires, making for over 12 carats of precious stones. Powered by an automatic movement, the Caliber R 27 Q, it combines a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. Housed in a 42mm platinum case with a lacquered blue dial featuring sapphire and diamond hour markers, it retails for close to $1.2 million.