At a challenging time for the global footwear industry, it’s critical to give the next generation of shoemakers the right tools for success.
At the 98th edition of the Milan-based Micam show, which runs through Tuesday at Rho Fiera, organizers once again put the spotlight on emerging talent, with 12 up-and-coming designers featured at the trade fair. The show has also launched the “Micam Academy,” a new hands-on educational area in partnership with Politecnico Calzaturiero Veneto and Arsutoria School.
“Combining technological innovation, evolving styles, and craftsmanship, Micam represents a both a unique showcase and an unmissable opportunity to catch up on the very latest developments within the footwear industry,” said Giovanna Ceolini, chair of Micam and Assocalzaturifici. “It’s not just about setting trends — it’s about shaping the present and future of footwear.”
Matteo Pasca, who has been the director of Arsutoria School since 2003, said the idea of the Micam Academy was to highlight the tech innovations that are already benefiting students at Arsutoria and companies across the industry.
Different stations within the space showcase some of the school’s partners: Snapfeet, for example, is a FitTech app for footwear measurement and virtual fitting. As 3D shoes continue to evolve, Primsatech uses immersive reality visors to aid in the process. And Sneaknit is a system that constructs uppers with a knitting machine, eliminating the need for glue.
One of the hottest topics in the industry is around traceability in the supply chain as the European Union enforces new legislation. The ID Factory, which is also part of the Micam Academy, specializes in traceability software, something that many companies will need to rely on more and more. “A lot of brands are asking suppliers to bring every step of their production to Italy,” Pasca said.
Sustainability remains top of mind for designers on the rise, and a number of the emerging talents at the show said it’s their number one mission.
Guillaume Mesly D’arloz, head of brand and impact at French vegan brand Meeko, said he is positioning the brand’s sneakers — which use recycled materials — as durable, versatile, and most importantly, long-lasting.
As the brand looks to expand beyond France — it’s currently seeking a U.S. distributor — Mesly D’arloz is hoping to capitalize on the continued convergence of fashion and outdoor. About half of the collection is made in Portugal, while the other more tech-driven part is crafted in China, and some looks feature Vibram soles.
Daphne Wattiez, the founder of Akvo, is another new designer at the show this week. She is focusing on simple sandals and slides that take plastic and other harmful materials out of the equation. She spent about two years developing her own yarn uppers before finding a factory in Portugal to execute her vision.
