By Paul Croughton
Not so long ago, Simon and I were discussing watches – specifically what would make a ‘Permanent Style watch’. As both a PS reader of well over a decade and a watch enthusiast and collector, I saw this as a welcome, if dangerous, opportunity to get sucked down a rabbit hole.
It was also a chance to highlight some lesser-known options, rather than the more commonly seen classics such as JLC’s Reverso, the Cartier Tank or a Patek Calatrava.
They’re all so widely recognised as icons of good taste that they’re obviously PS-type watches.
But before we debate what exactly the watches might be, let’s establish a definition.
To qualify, a ‘PS watch’ must tick multiple boxes. Most obviously it should have style – an understated elegance, by which I mean design language that leans towards simplicity, though there will always be magic in the details.
Second, size matters – there will be no dinner plates here. The trend for 44mm watches and above seems to be fading in favour of mid-sized or smaller timepieces. This, IMHO, is a good thing (see: elegance, above).
That means for the purposes of this article we’re going to narrow our parameters to dress watches (traditionally in precious metals, although steel is increasingly popular) rather than sports watches. This doesn’t mean that sports watches on metal bracelets aren’t great – of course they are. There may even be a follow-up piece there at some point. Simon’s vintage Rolex GMT is fantastic, for example. But for now, we’re trending more formal.
What else? A point of difference, an element of rarity (because the PS reader naturally shies away from the mass-produced) and the quality of make will be paramount. This plays into sustainability: even more than with bespoke tailoring, a well-made, well-cared-for watch should outlast its wearer. Probably many wearers.
So those are our guidelines. Finally, a word on price. High-end watches are expensive, increasingly so over the last few years. So I’ve deliberately picked some that are, in relative watch terms, on the cheaper side; the rest decidedly are not.
These are my personal preferences – I’m a long way from suggesting these are the only watches worth having. But I hope readers who appreciate the technical expertise that is poured into the making of a suit can do the same for the manufacture of a timepiece. Right, enough spiel. On to the watches.
1. Grand Seiko SLGW003
£10,300
Grand Seiko is the watch nerd’s little secret. The premium, artisan younger sibling of the Japanese behemoth that is Seiko, GS has a reputation for extreme accuracy, exceptional finishing… and rubbish names.
The first thing you notice about the SLGW003 (see what I mean?) is the textured dial, inspired by the bark of the white birch trees that grow near the GS studio in northern Japan. While a clean enamel dial is a beautiful thing, I’m a sucker for subtle dial decoration, and I love how GS uses nature as its guiding inspiration (check out its snowflake dial).
Other little details please me: the titanium case’s brushed bezel echoes the birch’s stripes, while GS’s signature Zaratsu polishing on the lugs creates crisp contrast. On the technical side, the manual-winding movement gives you an 80-hour power reserve, so you can take it off after work on Friday and it’ll still be going strong on Monday even if you’ve worn something else all weekend.
2. Naoya Hida Type 1D
£13,500
The independent Tokyo-based Naoya Hida launched in 2018. Its three-man team includes its eponymous founder, and together they have produced fewer than 200 pieces across a handful of different styles.
The Type 1D is a contemporary twist on vintage watches from the 1940s and 1950s, a period that many consider the golden age of elegant watch design. The 37mm case is made from tough 904L steel (used by Rolex, this is recognised both for its anti-corrosive qualities and for being a nightmare to machine) while the dial is a solid chunk of German silver.
Full disclosure: I have one of these and in the metal, as watch nerds say, the cursive Breguet numerals are truly beautiful – all the more for being carved freehand by one person. Imagine trying to chip out those numbers with nothing but a micro chisel and a magnifying glass. Like a Milanese buttonhole, the beauty is in the detail and the level of craftmanship is, frankly, ridiculous. [See video at the bottom of this article.]
The only thing I’m less keen on here is the strap. I’m not a fan of contrast stitching, so I wear mine on plain black crocodile or tan leather, and it works a treat.
3. The Armoury by Paulin Modul A Hong Kong II
£600 (approx)
This collaboration between The Armoury, whom readers will know very well, and small Glaswegian watch brand Paulin, has a lot going for it.
While the green dial isn’t exactly simple, I’m drawn to its unusual configuration. It’s a riff on what’s known as a California dial, created in the 1930s and used by pilots during World War II due to its error-proof configuration of Roman numerals up top and Arabic ones below. I’ve always loved them; they make me smile every time I turn my wrist.
This version switches in Chinese characters on the bottom half, making it that much more unusual, while the steel C-shaped case is a subtle point of difference that’s easy to overlook. At 35mm it’s surprisingly understated, and the suede strap is a great way of making a dress watch less formal.
I’d use this as a characterful travel watch: something cheery to throw on then forget about, and not worry if it got a bit bashed around.
4. Serica Parade 1174
£1,230 approx
Serica is a new independent brand from France that has, until now, focused on sturdy tool watches.
Its latest release is a dramatic departure: minimal and monochrome, it has an unusual ‘stadium’ case (so called because it looks like a sports stadium from above). There are obvious parallels to Patek Philippe’s famous Ellipse here, but in truth this is a more muscular vision of the sort of piece traditionally worn with black tie or at a cocktail event.
The 35mm brushed-steel case is in keeping with Serica’s back catalogue, but the guilloche (engraving) on the dial and small hour markers give it an uptown appearance, enhanced by a slim automatic movement.
Like the Paulin above this is certainly not for everyone – but if you appreciate vintage watches but want something more robust, or you’re after something unusual and unexpected, this could be for you. The first 250 of 500 will be available in March.
5. Chopard LUC 1860
£22,700
Chopard is an independent firm that makes glamorous jewelry and various styles of watches, not all of which I love. But when I saw this one at Watches & Wonders in Geneva (the horological equivalent of Pitti) it stood out a mile.
There’s a sexy high-low thing going on: you’ve got that chic salmon-coloured gold dial with guilloche pattern, and, like the 1D above, a sub-seconds dial. The movement looks beautiful through the open caseback, too.
But the steel 36.5mm case and grey calfskin strap stop it from coming off as overly fancy. It’s a bit like wearing a denim shirt under a flannel suit; there’s a quiet confidence here, a willingness to be a little different.
Speaking of clothes, this is another watch that works well with casual wear, but it would look sensational peeking out from under the cuff of a double-breasted, chalk-stripe suit. It screams – albeit it very quietly – sophistication.
5. Cartier Tank Must SolarBeat
£3,150
Yes, I know I said I wouldn’t include a Tank, but this one’s a little different thanks to something hidden behind those famous Roman numerals. It’s a solar panel, which charges the quartz battery so it only needs replacing once every 16 years. Sixteen years! Not that you’d know: to any casual observer it’s just a classic Tank, but in steel rather than gold.
A Tank is supremely versatile, as good with a vintage jungle jacket as with tailoring, so this is a low-maintenance, go everywhere option. It comes in two sizes on a leather-look plant-based strap – although one of the great things about a Tank is how well it takes to all sorts of other straps. I’ve even seen them look good on NATO military bands.
This is a high-tech twist on a classic, and one of the easiest ways into arguably the classiest, most design-focused watch brand.
Paul Croughton is a journalist and editor who has been writing about style, travel and luxury for 25 years. He’s run magazines in the UK and US, most recently as editor in chief of Robb Report in New York.
