The Armoury offers one of the best, and certainly widest, ranges of MTM tailoring around, but it can be a little confusing.
Five years ago, I wrote an article setting out the models in New York and what I thought about them. Given that was popular, and a fair bit has changed since then, I took the opportunity of being in New York recently to try them on again.
This is the current list, what I’ve had and what I recommend.
Model 1 / 101
There are two quality levels of MTM tailoring, the one made by Ring Jacket in Japan and the Hundred Series made in Italy.
Both have a machine-padded chest, which separates them from perhaps the highest level of MTM, but have a lot of other handwork. The Ring Jacket series has a hand-attached collar and sleeves, which for me is the first level of well-made MTM tailoring. The Hundred Series adds some hand-sewn seams as well as lots of hand-sewn finishing – buttons, tacks, buttonholes.
I reviewed the 101 style in the Hundred Series after that original article, and was very impressed. It’s not cheap ($3600 for an MTM suit today) but was one of the best MTM experiences I’ve had. That’s it above, and you can read the full review here.
Model 3 / 103
The other major style is the 103, which is softer, unpadded and more casual. It has only canvas in the shoulder, a lower buttoning point and more open quarters (the front edge below the waist button).
That’s it above and at top, and it’s what I decided to have made this time, to cover separately. It is Neapolitan in feel, but as I said in the first article, also has an extended shoulder and a little drape in the chest, which make it that much smarter.
In fact, in that original article I was talking about the Model 3, and one thing I never quite clocked about the Armoury suits was that the numbers reflect the same styles. So a Model 1 and a Model 3 from Ring Jacket are the same style as a 101 and the 103 in the Hundred Series – just a higher level of make. Though only the ones above, not the next few, have a higher make version.
Model 15
The next style I tried was Model 15, above. This is in some ways a mix of 1 and 3, but more specifically a direct take on Florentine style, with its angled side dart and round sweep from lapel into open quarters.
It’s the one to go for if you particularly like Florentine jackets – otherwise you might prefer Model 1/101 or Model 3/103. With these Ring Jacket styles, by the way, note that they’re a bit cheaper (an MTM suit starts at $3150) and are available MTO as well (just picking the fabric and details) from $2750.
A big change from the first article is also that Ring Jacket styles are now available made-to-measure all the time in store. Back then you had to wait for an RJ trunk show, which was rather limiting, but now the Armoury staff have been trained to do the MTM themselves.
Model 12
An unusual style introduced recently. Very similar to Model 3 but with a slightly workwear feel. It has triple patch pockets, machine stitching on the seams and a one-piece back. Elements were specifically taken from 1930s work jackets.
It’s designed to be more casual than the Model 3 and to work better with more casual trousers, but I’d be interested in seeing it in a more casual material than the oatmeal above, such as a heavy tweed. As in this material I’d always prefer the Model 3.
The other more casual jacket style, Model 7 described in the original article, has been discontinued.
Double-breasteds (6 and 16)
In the first piece I talked about Model 6, which is a double-breasted version of Model 3. I really liked the lapel shape and the peak, just wasn’t so keen on the pick stitching. That’s it in navy above.
This time I tried a new style, Model 16, which is a double-breasted version of that workwear-like Model 12 above. It has a lower, more horizontal lapel, with the same one-piece back and dartless front. I can definitely see the appeal of this style, but on balance would probably go for the 6.
Model 11
OK, try and get past that pattern. Kind of shade your eyes and try to look at the cut instead.
This is the Armoury’s Ivy-inspired style, and I covered in the original piece in a more sombre colour. As I said then, this high-fastening small-lapelled cut is not really me, but I’m always surprised how much I like it despite that – perhaps because it’s a modern interpretation of the sack suit rather than a straight copy.
Dinner jackets
Last of all, The Armoury recently introduced this shawl-collar dinner jacket based on the 103. In the Hundred Series quality, therefore, with a nice shawl collar and a 4×1 buttoning. It’s made in a Dupioni silk from Zegna, which is lovely.
I like a shawl collar a little wider, and I might be alone in preferring it without a buttonhole (it always seems to interrupt the nice shape, and I never wear a flower) but the style did work really well. Soft, being the 103 style, but still with enough sharpness for eveningwear.
The only model not pictured here is the Model 4, which is a peak lapel and usually used for other dinner jackets. You can see examples here.
I should say that all the pieces I’m trying on here are available ready-to-wear. Not many of them are left in this dinner jacket apparently, but the point of the Armoury range is to have things available to try on – and then be altered, MTO or MTM. I know some readers will find that rather easier and more appealing than bespoke trunk shows.
For my Model 3 commission I went with CashCo material from Zegna. I wouldn’t have done so (as I’d worry about how the mix would drape and wear) if I hadn’t seen it made up already elsewhere.
That’s also why I went with the pale taupe colour – I wouldn’t have been sure how that would look at scale. Fortunately the button choice (tan corozo) was easier.
I’ll cover that later in the year. Made to measure and made to order will be a bit of a focus for that period – instalments coming on Bryceland’s, The Anthology, Jake’s and Gaziano & Girling, alongside The Armoury.
Price breakdown:
The Armoury by Ring Jacket:
- RTW suit starting at $1600, jacket at $1200
- MTO suit starting at $2750, jacket at $1950
- MTM suit starting at $3150, jacket at $2150
The Armoury Hundred Series
- RTW suit starting at $3500, jacket at $2900
- MTM suit starting at $3600, jacket at $3200
Model numbers are 3, 4, 6, 11, 12, 15 and 16. Letters A (flat front) or B (single pleat) refer to the trouser style, when it’s a suit rather than a jacket.
The Armoury no longer do Orazio Luciano or Liverano (unlike five years ago) and the only bespoke offered is from the Ivy-specialist Tailor Caid.
Lead times are 8-10 weeks for the Hundred Series, three months for the others. A full breakdown of the Ring Jacket models is available on the Armoury site here
